Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Running of the Bulls - San Fermin - July 6-14

... the best festival in Spain! 

San Fermin or as it is most commonly referred to "The Running of the Bulls" is by far, in my opinion the best festival in all of Spain. It is much more than just an "Encierro", which literally means Bull Run in Spanish; it is a gathering of people from around the world, a party, a pissup, a non-stop flow of activities and concerts.

The name San Fermin refers to the co-patron saint of Navarre, a small region in the northern Spain to which Pamplona is the capital. His religious importance has taken a back seat in recent years, as the adrenaline packed party seems to be the only thing on people's minds.

Fiesta de San Fermines


The festival was made famous around the world following Ernest Hemingway's 1926 novel The Sun Also Rises. It is considered Hemingway's greatest work, and the contribution it has had in Pamplona has not been forgotten. In dedication to this great author the city renamed the street just outside of the bullring Paseo Hemingway.

Nowadays though the festival is all about the party! The Fiesta de San Fermines is non-stop, you will never find a moment of quiet in the city... except perhaps the silence that falls over the crowd of bullrunners immediately following the explosions signifying the bulls have been released. Leading up to the actual run, which begins at 8:00 AM sharp, festival goers party and drink all night. There are no laws against drinking in the streets during these two weeks, in fact there seem to be no laws at all during the san fermines festival! While wandering the streets at 4:00 AM don't be surprised to find yourself swept up in a sporadic parade of drummers and musicians marching their way through the city. These bands play throughout the night to ensure not even the heaviest of sleepers are allowed to rest during the fiesta. As the sun rises, the crowds turn to their watches, and begin to travel in hoards towards the bullrunning track. The bravest/drunkest of these onlookers step over the fence, each feigning bravery, and pretending that a pack of bulls running directly at them doesn't scare them in the least. Awkward high fives, and stories from the previous nights party are shared among the bullrunners. All until the firecrackers go off...

San Fermin Fiestas
Waiting in the streets for the bulls to come

This is when the chaos begins. Some members of the audience, usually those who have never seen or participated before, dart off towards the ring without looking back. The others stay put, there is an unwritten law that one should not start to run until the horns of the bull are visible. Those that enter the stadium before the bulls are booed and will even have rubbish tossed at them from the crowd. Apparently sitting in a stadium seat shows much more bravery than beating the bull into the ring. Approximately 30 seconds after the first explosion is when the bulls penetrate the crowd. Tourists and locals alike crash into each other, and fall over one another attempting to run straight ahead and avoid the potentially lethal pack of bulls running behind them.

825 meters later, or approximately 3 minutes, the bullrunners and bulls find themselves alike within the giant Pamplona Bull Ring. The bulls who participated in the run are quickly ushered out the other side of the ring, while bullrunners exchange high fives and share laughs with one another. Little do they realize, things are far from over... It is to the great surprise of many of the tourists when they release smaller bulls back out into the ring. These bulls come out charging, chasing the thousand-plus crowd around the ring. The point of this "game" is to slap the bull on the ass with a rolled up newspaper. It is simple, it is stupid, it is dangerous, but it is so much fun!

Fiesta de San Fermines
Reveler gets gored!

When the final bull has left the ring, the crowd lets out a big roar and a final round of high fives are shared among complete strangers. The revelers go their own ways, most of whom head off to bed, but some make their way to the nearby restaurants to share stories and enjoy a post run meal. Our suggestion: try the "Estofado de toro"... or in English "Bull Stew"!

Accommodation can be difficult to find but if camping and partying seem like a good idea, there is a campground just north of Pamplona which has a private area for bullrunners. They provide tents, sleeping bags, foamies, transport to and from Pamplona, breakfast, bbq dinner, and best of all UNLIMITED BOOZE!

Fiesta of San Fermin
Drink up, you're gonna need it!